A Basic Introduction to Orgonite and Making It

Lampropeltis
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Hope I got this in the right forum, I make Orgonite, and here's something I typed up. Unfortunately it doesn't go into the history and a few other things, but it should be a decent intro.

Orgonite is a substance cast from metal shavings and resin mixed 50/50 with one to several quartz crystals added in. It has been attributed with many powers, from reducing the negative effect of EMF (electromagnetic frequencies) boosting health, to affecting the weather, to warding off evil aliens. Some claims and conspiracy theories linked to it are a little far out for me, but what’s typically agreed on, is its basic function. It draws in DOR (negative or detrimental energy) and converts it to POR (positive energy). In layman’s terms, it converts bad vibes into good vibes. So it’s nice to have a few pieces lying around.

As metaphysical tools go, it’s one of the safer and beginner-friendly ones. However, it has several minor caveats attached. If someone enjoys extremely dark or heavy energy, it tends to clean it up, and therefore could put a damper on their ambient surroundings. Someone who is extremely sensitive to energy (even positive energy) might find large pieces too intense, and may even find small pieces overstimulating if carelessly handled or kept in their bedroom during sleeping hours. For this reason, unless a household has really nasty energy, I wouldn’t set it in a young child’s room till they have the maturity to self-regulate their energy level. And while it’s commonly stated that it doesn’t need cleansing, (and it’s true that it doesn’t need cleansing the same way that regular quartz crystals do and it isn’t going to start spitting bad energy at someone) for indoor pieces, a quarterly or bi-yearly rinsing in cool water, or charging in moonlight, or grounding via the earth (or other form of energetic TLC) will boost its performance and keep it ‘happy’.

Learning to make it yourself isn’t for everyone and involves some expense (unless you’re very clever and/or lucky, expect to shell out fifty dollars or so to get started) but it is very rewarding. And casting one simple TB (towerbuster, a 2-3” little piece with one crystal and traditionally cast in a muffin pan) will teach you more about Orgonite than five hours of browsing online, or even purchasing a finished piece and having it in hand, (though comparing different finished pieces can be quite educational). Hopefully this article will save you some of the learning curve that I went through.

WARNING Please, please please, use adequate ventilation, appropriate protection against chemicals, eye protection when cutting pointy wires or metal curls, common sense, etc. While not particularly dangerous compared to many hobbies and craft forms, there are still some potential dangers so please be careful and stay safe.

And now a look at the main three ingredients.

Metal should be approximately half the volume of the Orgonite, (minus the crystal). On the internet, you may see beautiful pieces of cast resin and crystals with very little metal. Some of these may be lovely pieces of art, and the crystals may have pleasant energy, but without those metal curls, it’s not Orgonite. There are different sources of metal that can be used. Sweepings from a machine shop (if they are oil free or can be easily cleaned and if long curls are broken down to size) are close to perfect. Brass splinters from key cuttings while sharp, pointy and best treated like a powder are also useful. Stripped copper electrical wire is another good source of metal and one of the most readily available sources of copper. Metal scrubbers, either copper, stainless or steel, can be easily found and cut up with either tin snips, or a pair of scissors that you are absolutely certain no-one will miss. Pure copper pot scrubbers when cut up and cast are pricey at $3/oz and time intensive but can make for very beautiful Orgonite. Theoretically, a box of paper clips could make good Orgonite. Clean aluminum machine shop shavings can be found online for less than several dollars per pound, so might be a labor-friendly option. Copper and steel BB’s can work, but they would be more than 50% by volume so might not have the right dynamic in the resin. Foil can also work, but even when shredded would be less than 50% by volume so might have the opposite problem. Size is important. If the pieces are too large and loose, energy may flow through and not be effectively cleaned. If the pieces are extremely fine, close together and grain-like, the energy might get ‘stuck’ unless another source of energy powers the Orgonite. There are forms of powered Orgonite that require pieces cast with dense small pieces of metal, but I have no experience with that, so am not going into it. A combination of sizes of metal often works best. For types of metal steel (good if you don’t have greasy pieces that need cleaning), copper (my favorite), aluminum (it has a bad rap in some circles but is honestly a nice metal that works just fine), gold (if you can afford it, but even a tiny piece of real leaf will influence the finished piece) silver, brass, bronze and titanium (if you’re lucky enough to find it) can all work. Avoid oily pieces or figure out how to clean them, as otherwise they’ll cast poorly. I recommend researching the magical and energetic properties of the metals you’re interested in, and handling a few pieces. Combining different metals often works well.

Quartz crystals are needed to run the Orgonite. When compressed in resin, it ‘powers’ the piece, drawing and moving the energy. The direction the point is aligned, is typically the greatest focus when energy from the Orgonite is sent out. Single terminated crystals are most commonly used, but double terminated crystals, tumbled crystals and chips are also used. A TB (towerbuster) typically has one crystal while a HHG (Holy Hand Grenade named after a Monty Python reference is cone or pyramid shaped and 4-5 inches wide at the base) typically has one double terminated crystal placed vertically so it’s aimed up towards the tip of the piece and the floor, and then has four single terminated crystals below the double terminated one, that form a cross, each lying horizontally and angled ninety degrees to each-other. Besides regular quartz, rose quartz, amethyst, smoky quartz, citrine and other forms of quartz can all be used. Their energetic and magical properties influence the finished piece. So someone who wants a piece with a warm, gentle feel might use rose quartz, while someone that wants something more grounded and earthy could use smoky quartz

Resin is the last key ingredient. The most important thing about resin, is that it is a type that shrinks slightly as it cures, in order to compress the crystal slightly. Clear polyester resin is most commonly used. A type of resin called Silmar 41 is popular. Fiberglass resin dries with a yellow brown color, and I have not used it, but I have heard it works fine and is economical. People have reported success with two-part epoxies and other substances. Often when copper or copper based metals are used, the amount of catalyst needs to be increased by roughly half again as much in order to cure properly. So if the amount of catalyst would be 10 drops normally, with copper it may need to be increased up to 15 drops. A scale that accurately measures ounces and fractions of ounces can be worth its weight in gold in order to make calculations. Most resins have a shelf life which must be looked out for. Resin needs to be cast in a well ventilated area and it heats up when it’s curing, so be sure to arrange curing it in a safe area that can withstand a usually modest but still unknown amount of heat. Because of all the random factors involved in casting resin, (including ambient temperature, layered castings, etc) when you first start casting (or when you’re adding in different influences), start simply, and start on a very small scale (like one TB with no particularly fancy metals or pricey or favorite crystals) so if something goes wrong, you aren’t out that much time, money and effort. Also, remember mold release and when you start out, cast in molds that you won’t feel bad if you need to destroy. Plastic jello mold, yes. Thirty dollar aluminum novelty muffin pan, no. Resin’s crucial, but it’s also fickle. It is also to be noted when designing an artistic piece or when purchasing Orgonite, that ‘clear’ spaces in Orgonite that are pure resin without metal mixed in, are simply resin. These spaces can be artistic and beautiful, but they also cut down on efficiency. This can be worth it, but it’s something to keep an eye on.

Besides the main three ingredients, smaller amounts of other ingredients can affect the energy and appearance of the finished piece. These are optional, but can be nice.

Smaller stones can lend their attributes to Orgonite and the Orgonite can amplify them. The stones could be anything from tumbled stones, smaller chips, to a powder. In the last case, it may even influence the final color. The magical and energetic properties of stones can be researched. And some stones boost each-other, like Amethyst and Garnet. It is tempting to toss umpteen different stones in there to amplify all their abilities. But this has two different problems. First, it is like having too many cooks in the kitchen working on the stew. Having the sage and basil together is great, but with that savory combination, the maple syrup should be nowhere in sight! Also, I have seen beautiful pieces online with umpteen different stones and no room left for the metal. The pieces may be beautiful, and it is possible the different stones have a positive effect together, but without enough metal, it simply isn’t Orgonite. So pick one to several that you like per piece. I have heard that due to its intensity Moldavite reacts badly to being cast in Orgonite, but have not tried it first hand, so cannot say for certain.

Herbs that are dried and ground can be mixed into Orgonite, as can different resins and incense. Once again, their magical and energetic properties can be researched. I have had success with White Sage (stone reliable), and Frankincense (turns soft and mars the surface where it touches, but has a nice energy). Some herbs may color the Orgonite in an unpleasant way, even if their energetic effect is pleasant.

Powders, whether they are a pearly powder to color the Orgonite, specks of smaller gemstones, tiny pieces of metal like brass key shavings, dried and ground herbs or even dry dirt can be mixed in with the resin. The ideal sequence is to pour the resin from the original container to the pouring container, mixing in the catalyst, and then mixing in the powders and any coloration desired. If the powder is merely dropped in the mold, the resin may not mix with it properly.

Coloration depending on the aesthetic effect and any magical or energetic influence desired, coloration dyes designed for your resin of choice can be added. Herbs, and various powders also influence the final color.

Copper wire spiraled around the quartz crystals or even in a cone that is near the outside and that encircles the core of the piece, can be used to amplify and guide the energy. It is typical to spiral the coil clockwise, but there is some debate as to what clockwise actually means. My definition, is that it means that when you’re looking at it and you’re looking at it coming towards you, it’s counterclockwise, but if you look down it going away from you, or think of it as a tiny spiral staircase going down, it’s clockwise then. It sounds counter intuitive, so if you need a visual ‘cheat’, look at an elongated spiral seashell (an average one, not some mutant, and not a photo that some ‘genius’ reversed in Photoshop) and coil your copper wire the same way. Nature knows best. Copper wire can be found without a coating in hardware stores, or as scrap on Ebay. Or if you’re careful, on top of a scrap-wood surface, an Xacto knife with the blade pointed away from both you and anyone you’d miss, you can run the blade along the length of coated scrap wire in order to strip the wire yourself. I recommend using as heavy wire as you are comfortable with that also seems proportionally appropriate for the crystal and finished piece. Wire cutters are a must, and pliers may be necessary for heavier wires.

Various molds can be used. My experience is with plastic molds. They range from cheap yogurt containers, to cute novelty candy molds sold in craft stores. Mold release is necessary. I have not yet worked with silicon molds (which are recommended highly by some) or with metal or glass molds (such as cast aluminum muffin trays or cheap martini glasses) but from what I have heard, if the metal or glass is smooth and the resin is a type that shrinks a little, it casts well, and after curing, placing them upside down in the freezer for a short time is all that’s required to pop the Orgonite out of the molds. I have not personally tested this yet, so cannot promise anything. I have also heard that with silicon, metal and glass molds mold release isn’t necessary, but once again, I have not personally tested this and cannot promise anything. If you look around, there are many molds in attractive shapes.

The casting and curing piece is sensitive to energy. It’s a time of relative vulnerability, and impressionability. And by infusing it with the energy you want, you can use this to your advantage. You can cast at an auspicious planetary hour or astrological time, infuse it with spells, beneficial energy, Reiki, placing it near your favorite crystals, various types of music, electronic frequencies designed for the purpose, prayer, or even a simple good mood. And it will pick up on this. Remember that in the earlier stages of curing, it smells bad and is not good for anything living in an enclosed area with it, so you don’t ‘stink’ yourself out of house and home. A sick and disturbed maniac could cast Orgonite with evil thoughts on his mind and although diminished, the Orgonite would still have beneficial effects, so people unused to working energy or nervous about how the resin cures don’t have to worry too much about messing up. But beneficial energy helps. Preparing the ingredients via cleaning and blessing them in some way before casting them also helps but isn’t required. Orgonite can also be programmed after it’s been cast, though it is not quite so malleable after casting.

Here are basic instructions for one TB. Once again, common sense, caution, and I'm extremely sorry but not liable if it's an abject disaster.

Ingredients:
1 mold you won’t miss that comes to between a quarter and a half cup of liquid and is stabilized so that the opening is level (so that the casting does not become tilted or spill when poured)
Some form of mold release (or feeling really, really, lucky)
Polyester resin and catalyst
Popsicle Stick.
Disposable container for pouring. If this doesn’t measure ounces, you’ll have to use an accurate scale.
Calculator and/or notepad or mind for math for calculating resin to catalyst ratio
Clean metal shavings you will not miss if you mess up
One crystal you will not miss if you mess up, or even if you succeed as it will be hidden
Any little ‘flavoring’ goodies that don’t
Well ventilated area, and surface (via laid down newspapers, or other strategy) that you will not miss
Fine Sandpaper
Toothpick or two
Paper towels
Not everyone uses them, but I recommend gloves and goggles

Step 1. Energetic cleansing of various ingredients if you choose to do so.

Step 2. Get all the above ingredients together in one place. In my house this step is surprisingly difficult.

Step 3. Applying the mold release of choice to the mold of choice by following the directions.

Step 4. Adding about one third of the metal shavings to the mold. Then adding the crystal. Then adding the rest of the metal.

Step 5. Calculating the amount of resin needed. Guesstimating or eyeballing it works. To be frugal, as step 0, you could measure water into the mold, pour the water from the mold to the pouring container, mark the water level, then pour the water out. Your marked pouring container will be a little bit over what you will need, but not much. Then dry everything off well, and proceed with Step 1.

Step 6. Calculating the amount of catalyst needed for the resin. The size of the mold, the ambient temperature and the amount of copper, bronze or brass you’re casting will affect the amount needed.

Step 7. Mixing in the catalyst quickly and thoroughly.

Step 8. Mix in any powdered or fine additives. While mixing, try to avoid bubbles.

Step 9. Pour the resin slowly into the mold. Don’t panic and dump it in so it splashes and bubbles, nor drip it in a tiny trickle. A gentle, steady stream is adequate to move resin and avoid bubbles. You will probably end up with a choice between covering the piece till the metal’s all encased, or running short. If you run short and a little metal sticks out, you’ll have to trim and sand down the metal after it cures. Once poured, pop any bubbles with a toothpick.

Step 10. Add happy energy of choice if desired, and set somewhere well ventilated where it won’t pose a danger if it heats up to an unusual extent.

Step 11. If there is any resin mixed with catalyst left, you can cast another piece (if you have one set up quickly) or you can leave it to cure in the disposable container so that you can discard it safely. For the love of whatever deity you pray to or lack thereof, do not pour the catalyzed resin back into the non-catalyzed resin or you will lose the entire container. If there was some spill that needed cleaning, either let the soiled paper towels air out, or place them in a fire-resistant metal container. Polyester resin isn’t that flammable, but by its nature it heats up and you can’t be too careful.

Step 12. Let the piece cure. Depending on various conditions, this could take hours, or days. If you’re familiar with dowsing (or even if you aren’t it’s great practice) measuring the Orgonite’s energy field over the curing process often yields interesting results. Add additional happy energy during the curing process if desired.

Step 13. Once the piece is cured, cold and no longer sticky, remove it from the mold using your technique of choice. While it’s debatable, in my opinion, swearing is permitted. Sand any rough edges, trim any metal poking out via tin snips, wire cutters or fingernail clippers (using whichever is most appropriate) and sand down anything that remains sharp.

Step 14. Preen and enjoy!

So that’s Orgonite in a nutshell. If you have thoughts, tips or experiences, please contribute!


"With great power comes great responsibility." -Uncle Ben
Lampropeltis
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I can't edit, but want to add two things to the Ingredient list.

'Any little flavoring goodies that don't' should read instead, 'Any little energy flavoring goodies that don't cost too much'.

And also, if you need to weigh the resin in the disposable pouring container on a scale, first weigh the empty disposable pouring container, then weigh the disposable pouring container with the resin, and then subtract the weight of the pouring container to calculate precisely how much the resin inside weighs.


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:wave: Interesting! Thanks for sharing!! :thumbup:


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It's funny, I've been really interested in this lately and was planning to try my hand at making some basic energy generators. So this post was incredibly helpful :thumbup: ::thanx::


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Excellent & informative post lamp! TY for sharing this! :thumbup:


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Orgonite/Orgone is fantastic "stuff"! Going to try my hand at making it. I've thought about it before but your post has given me just the right amount of encouragement. i do have a question about the curing though...It's colder weather here now, can I cure it in the barn/garage or does it need above freezing weather?
Thank you! :pumpkin:



Lampropeltis
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You're welcome guys! :wave:

Ledastrae, I often err to the side of using to little catalyst in my pieces, and find I need to put them in a cozy place (75-80 Fahrenheit ) to get a proper cure happening in a reasonable time frame. It might somehow be theoretically possible to cure resin in under freezing temperatures, but I don't know how and I don't recommend it. If you have a reliable space heater you can set up to keep the curing area warm, that might be a potential solution.

Best of luck! :thumbup:


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chocorondo wrote::wave: Interesting! Thanks for sharing!! :thumbup:


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Interesting, never heard of this stuff before! :oops: Looked at some pics online and it looks really cool!

Can I just ask ... what do you use it for? Do you sit it in your room/keep it on yourself to keep the energy around you positive? Or do you use it for other such things?

Also ..... I have never been good at the practical stuff, would it be possible for me to buy some off you at all? :)

Thanks in advance!


Lampropeltis
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Thanks!

The most common use, is to set it in the house and enjoy the vibes. In my personal experience, it disperses negative atmospheres, deters malign spirits and entities, and has a healing effect on peoples energy fields. Some people grid their apartment, house or property with one small piece to a corner and possibly a larger piece near the middle. Some people use it in their gardens to encourage plant growth (I haven't tried this so have no reports on it) or place it near electronic equipment to reduce the harmful effects of electronic frequencies (I haven't researched studies, so don't know about the effectiveness). And it's not unheard of for people to sneak a large piece into their office to lighten their work environment. Small personal pieces can be carried to provide some defense against negative energy. And a really handy use IMO, is to take a piece, and drop it in a grungy shed, closet or storage area to 'bomb' it to lighten the energy a day or so before physically cleaning it, so you don't have your hands in energetic muck.

There's also a philosophy found online about 'gifting'. In gifting, roughly made but still functional TB's are dispersed in a grid of one per quarter mile, with larger concentrations around cell phone towers, negative 'hot spots' or bodies of water. The philosophy behind this ranges from wanting to improve the quality of life for people and nature, stabilizing weather patterns, to tactical confrontations with secretive villains who desire world domination. I'm into Orgonite simply for the happy vibes and the technical and artistic aspects, but there are many other philosophies online.

For purchasing Orgonite, I'm going to have some in the marketplace soon (apologies to the Mods but it's relevant), but good pieces (for more modest prices than mine) can also be found through Ebay where a respectable TB can cost between $3 and $10 dollars. Be sure to look for the 50/50 resin to metal ratio (with machined shavings being IMO ideal), 1 crystal for a TB, 5 crystals for a HHG, and a clear description of the size and what's inside. Besides 'Orgonite', also try 'Orgone' in the search engine and more stuff will pop up.


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